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Thursday, November 18, 2010

my TOP10 steps on How to Build Gunpla

 


As always, I do not claim expertise in this hobby but I just want to share my steps on how I build my kits. I thought of this coz I get a few emails on inquiries on how to build Gunpla. Questions like, Do I prime my kit? Do I apply gloss coat before putting on decals or Is top coat necessary after the panel line wash?

I do not mind answering those inquiries, though it gets boring typing the same answers for every email. So I thought of creating this basic guide on how I do my Gunpla ( ootb ). Now whenever I get the same inquiries / questions, I could simply direct them to this list. Nifty move ey? hihi... Now let's start building!


1.SNAPFIT
 I always snapfit!  This is my fav step in building and collecting Gunpla. However, I do think snap fitting is very important coz you get to see the flaws of the kit, problem areas during painting, masking jobs and even plan some mods if you like your kit modded. Note: Always cut the male peg diagonally for easier dis-assembly.


2. SAND OFF
The most boring part but is one of the most important steps is sanding & sanding & sanding! Disassemble the snap fitted kit and sand off the nub marks or cut marks. Remove the seam lines ( if any ) with Tamiya thin cement, let cure overnight and sand off also. Gradual wet sanding of 800 grit - 1000 grit - 1200 / 1600 grit is advisable for a smoother plastic without scratch / sand marks.


2b. MODIFICATIONS
For those who does mods, I am pretty sure you do not need this list. hihi... but for the new guys, this is where modifications, scratch building and kitbashing should be.


3. WASH PARTS
After all the sanding fun! Use an old toothbrush and brush off the sand dust/grime under running water, then soak all the parts overnight in water with a drop of liquid soap. Rinse and let dry before priming.


4. PRIME
Prime, prime and prime. Priming is also important, it adheres to plastic better than non - primer paints. You could also see some errors or sand marks after priming, thus you could correct them or re-sand before re- priming and painting. Plus, kits looks great in primer! :)


5. PAINT
I used to use spray cans during my first year of Gunpla modeling, but eventually shifted to airbrushing coz I find it more practical and a lot more fun to use. I usually use Tamiya acrylics for painting but shifts to Mr. hobby colors from time to time. Let paint cure at least overnight before sealing.


6. SEAL with GLOSS
I use Future ( Pledge Wipe and Shine ) for sealing. Gloss coat after painting  will help protect the paint and will be a necessary finish for water slide decal work. Let cure at least overnight before decaling.


7. DECALS
I have used Samuel decals and Bandai water slide decals, they adhere best over a glossy surface. Use mark softener for better results.


8. SEAL with GLOSS
Another layer of gloss coat after decaling will protect  the decals and is a necessary finish for the panel line wash. Never do panel line washes over a matte or flat surface.


9. PANEL LINE WASH
I use Tamiya enamels thinned with ZIPPO lighter fluid. Apply with a small brush and let capillary action so that the thinned enamel will run through the lines smoothly. Clean up excess with cotton swabs dipped in lighter fluid.


9b. WEATHERING
For those who are into weathered kits, weathering should be here. I personally use enamel washes, Tamiya weathering sets, Citadel paints for paint chipping and Gundam markers. Give the kit a nice Matte coat before applying Mungyo chalk pastels though.


10. TOP COAT
Apply the final top coat! your done! I give my kits a final top coat of flat or matte and sometimes semi - gloss for kits with curvy armors. I use Future mixed with 10% to 30% Tamiya flat base. If you mixed more than 30% you'll end up with a white snowy kit! hihi

Hope the list is helpful. thanks for dropping by! :)

51 comments:

Don Suratos ( DC23 ) said...

which part does modifying goes?

Don Suratos ( DC23 ) said...

educational. thanks DC23

Don Suratos ( DC23 ) said...

It can go before and after sanding ( 2 )... mods should go before priming ( 4 ). :)

Don Suratos ( DC23 ) said...

Welcome... this post will help me answer inquiries actually. :)

Don Suratos ( DC23 ) said...

great information XD... good job DC23 :D

Don Suratos ( DC23 ) said...

So that's the sequence. Although I totally skipped the painting part. XD
(as I usually used paint markers to colour some of my gunpla's thrusters)

Don Suratos ( DC23 ) said...

Much needed basic info to go around bro. :)

Don Suratos ( DC23 ) said...

hihihi.... I usually end with snapfit. XD

Don Suratos ( DC23 ) said...

awesome. thanks for posting this

Don Suratos ( DC23 ) said...

Thanks bro! XD

Don Suratos ( DC23 ) said...

Thanks for posting, :) it's very helpful

Don Suratos ( DC23 ) said...

Great guide, very useful step by step guide for beginning plamo-builders

Don Suratos ( DC23 ) said...

ahhh thanks... one question tho, bro: soak all the parts overnight in water with a drop of liquid soap, purpose for this?

Don Suratos ( DC23 ) said...

If you do it ootb, meaning you just sanded the nub marks, this would remove the releasing agent that is on the surface of the plastic from the factory. Primer / paint will better adhere to the plastic. :)

I modify so much that is why I sand a lot leaving the surface good for paints. I skip the overnight soaking part sometimes, though I always wash the parts under running water. :)

Don Suratos ( DC23 ) said...

Thanks bro! I figured it would be useful for beginners... I had a hard time researching for the steps when I was a newbie. :)

Don Suratos ( DC23 ) said...

Welcome bro, glad it's kinda useful. :)

Don Suratos ( DC23 ) said...

Great tutorial. Maybe you could make an article on the tools that you use & where you got them (especially since you're from the Philippines, too).

Don Suratos ( DC23 ) said...

Welcome... Good idea bro, will make that list soon. ;)

Don Suratos ( DC23 ) said...

DC23, i'm a big fan of your works, and started to do gunpla cuz I see yours. question is, after the snap fit, you do the sanding right? now, during the sanding process, does this mean you are building the kit as well? since you have to use tamiya cements and all. so after the sanding process, do i semi-built model? (left arms, right arms, upper body, etc)? this always get me confused.

Don Suratos ( DC23 ) said...

Thanks sir... Snapfit the whole kit and play with it and see some problem areas. For example how to modify parts so that you won't have to mask ( specially n 1/144s )... then you disassemble the kit, cement the seam lines ( let cure overnight )... then you sand away before priming. :)

Don Suratos ( DC23 ) said...

modify parts so I don't have to mask? problem is, when we want to get rid of the seam lines, some joints has to be fixed first right? for example, arms and stuff. how do you trick that? sorry if this is such a basic question. I practice with 1/144 before goin into MGs and PGs :D

Don Suratos ( DC23 ) said...

Yeah, elbows and knees are almost impossible to mod so not to mask. But shoulder armors and the head can be modified so that you just insert the other parts after fixing the seam lines. :)

Don Suratos ( DC23 ) said...

I have a noob question :D
What if i don't want to paint my gunpla...?

After Snapfit then sanding then what's next?...
I'm planning to add RUST Effect Shadowing using TAMIYA Weathering and then add panel line.

What is my next step? SANDING, REMOVING SEAM LINES, ???

Don Suratos ( DC23 ) said...

Sand, Remove seam lines, add panel lines, decal, weather then seal with clear flat coat

Don Suratos ( DC23 ) said...

Thanks dude...i will finish my aegis gundam then :D

Don Suratos ( DC23 ) said...

Cool! anytime bro. :)

Don Suratos ( DC23 ) said...

i just started gunpla recently and havnt tried applying paints on any of my kits.. Sir, whats best for starters..? should i go for sprays or brush painting..?

on applying the final top coat, how do you do it..? is it redoing the whole kit with gloss coat mixed with flat paints..? what about paint chippings, the details and washes that are already there..? this confuses me a bit, help :( heheh..

im also new to the forums, its good to be here.. looking forward to hear from you and from everyone.. your guide helps a lot, thanx.. heheh..

Don Suratos ( DC23 ) said...

I am not good with hand brushing, so I'd recommend spray cans for practice bro. I mix future with Tamiya flat base for top coats... DO NOT mix more than 30% of flat base or else you'll get white spots.

Paint your kits first before going into weathering bro. Happy modeling and enjoy the forums bro! :)

Don Suratos ( DC23 ) said...

writing it down.. heheh.. very much appreciated sir, thanx again.. =)

Don Suratos ( DC23 ) said...

Welcome! feel free to post your stuffs in the forums. :)

Don Suratos ( DC23 ) said...

These are all really helpful tips - especially on painting! If I may ask, a few questions:

1 - Does it matter if I sand/file away and clean up the parts in soapy water BEFORE snapfitting? I usually do this because half the time, nubs that get left behind will cause fitting problems with some parts during the build, so I just end up removing them all to make sure.

2 - How many coats of Wipe & Shine do you recommend to seal off the paints? I don't use an airbrush, so I usually apply BOSNY gloss. If I were to use Wipe & Shine, I'd likely be using a wide brush.

Don Suratos ( DC23 ) said...

Thanks...
1. Nope, it just takes up too much time bro. I rather do a quick snapfit with nub marks and see which nubmarks I need to clean up. Most of the MG internal parts are hidden anyways. You do need to wash the parts before priming.

2. A couple of coats letting it dry for 15 minutes in between coats. You do not need a wide brush COZ Wipe and Shine has self - leveling properties. SO it will level down smoothly without brush strokes, though you need to make sure their are NO pools of wipe and shine building up on the edges.

Hope these helps bro. :)

Don Suratos ( DC23 ) said...

Thanks a lot for the quick reply! I'll try this with some old SD kits I've repainted!

Don Suratos ( DC23 ) said...

When applying wet decals, how do you stop the darn decals from sliding all over the place? Whenever I try to absorb the water, or pat the decal dry, the darn things nudge and move, and I can't seem to keep them where I want them. Applying Mark Softer also moves them, and trying to wipe the excess Mark Softer gets them out of the desired place. At this point, the decals will be all wrinkly thanks to the Mark Softer and the moving around, so I have to brush them with a paper towel to smooth the decals, and yes, they move again... groan... am I missing something in how to properly apply a wet decal? :(

Don Suratos ( DC23 ) said...

Yes they will move if there are too much water. I put them where I want them, remove the excess water by pressing with my thumb, then press with a cotton swab directly on top of the decal. You don't rub them sideways ( as it will move )... you dab it until its all dry. You then apply setter to the decal and NEVER rub it once you have applied a setter.

IMPORTANT: After applying the setter, the decal will be wrinkled for sometime, JUST let it stand for a few minutes and it will settle down nice and smooth. The wrinkling is natural, its the setter's way of showing you that it is working.

Hope this helps. :)

AdventEchoes said...

where can i go to get and how do i go about creating custom decals?

DC23 said...

Google SAMUEL decals up bro... those are nice custom decals sold online.

AdventEchoes said...

THANK YOU! lol

DC23 said...

Anytime! hehehe

DC23 said...

Can't tell unless I see photos bro. It will be great if you join our forums - www.macforums.tk
as a lot of modelers will be willing to help you there. :)

blatclot said...

Thanks for the tips and indeed they are very usefull especially for a guy like me who just started at this hobby. I got a few question tho

1. What is the best way to cut runners so nub marks will be prevented?

2. Can do sanding without painting? Sanding off the nub marks?

After 4 MG's this is really a problem for me. Thanks in advance!

Slyce said...

Hi bro! First off, very proud to see a fellow Filipino doing awesome gunpla modeling! On to my question: I am  a noob in gunpla painting, and I do not have access to an airbrush or Tamiya paint(I'm not from Manila = No Tamiya paint sellers in my vicinity) so I was wondering: If I used a common spray can (bosny, pylox) clear gloss as sealing, then clear flat as top coat, will it cause the snow thingy? Any possible way to avoid that problem using only spray cans? Lotsa thanks! =]

DC23 said...

You've mentioned the very same paints I used to use when I started Gunpla. You could easily avoid the snowy thingee by painting during warm days and not spraying so thickly. Hope that helps. :)

Slyce said...

Thanks for the tips bro! Tried painting my practice kit using your steps and it turned out really great! Painting and detailing really adds a lot of fun to gunpla buliding, compared to just snapfitting and leaving it at that.. I just might stay with this hobby longer than I expected i would :) Thanks a lot!

DC23 said...

Glad you enjoyed the painting bro! Hope you enjoy the hobby more! :)

Shadow Wind said...

Sir DC, I was wondering... I tried the enamel wash on bare Zaku Sniper and it fell apart in my hands... I think plastic becomes brittle when applied with enamel wash without gloss seal... but I was wondering about your idea of using lighter fluid... would this formula help prevent the plastic becoming brittle or would it be the same with the situation of using Tamiya Enamel Thinner? :)   

DC23 said...

Tamiya enamel thinner is the worst! Zippo lighter fluid is a lot more forgiving. And a gloss coat before the washes would help protect it. :)

Animeskin69 said...

Silly question what exactly is the future coat thar you are refering. Also I use humbrol enamels any tip regarding them?

DC23 said...

It's the pledge wipe and shine sir. I heard abour humbrols but I have never used them before, I'm sorry. :)

masterjaw said...

For semi-gloss finish, do you also follow the 10-30% mixture you mentioned for flat base?

DC23 said...

For semi gloss, just add 5 - 10 %. :)

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