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Friday, March 19, 2010

Seamline Removal - AC White Glint WIP part VII


Ello guys, I just removed the seam lines of the AC White Glint, actually I just applied cement and I will sand it tomorrow. I figured that this part of the AC WIP could be a small tutorial on how you remove seam lines using Tamiya Cement and Tamiya Thin Cement. Both types does the job well, they just use different methods when applied. The most important TIP here is that both cements dries in minutes BUT cures overnight...so let the cement cure before sanding.

Now lets go through the simple steps with pictures...

Tamiya Cement, this is the standard type...a lot thicker than the thin variety and dries to touch a bit faster...You apply this by opening the two pieces apart and put some cement with the included brush on the edges of both parts...

the two parts that needs cementing...


put cement on BOTH parts around the edges...


assemble and press together firmly until some melting plastic oozes out...this is good...if done properly/successfully, you won't need to putty the parts. As you can see in both pictures, some oozed out styrene appeared due to the pressure of pressing the two parts together...this dries to touch in minutes but cures overnight ( or at least a couple of hours ). NOW, I will be sanding this early tomorrow and will update with pics.



Tamiya THIN cement, this variety is newer and thus there are a few tutorials of this around. Anyways, this is a thinner variety of the standard cement earlier and as I've said you use a different method in using this. If you apply this to both parts like the standard version...it practically dries due to the thinness of the mixture. This is a ton easier to use on small parts and parts that has complicated edges like guns...Now here are some pics...

Here is how to use the Tamiya THIN Cement...open the two parts apart, but leave a gap as wide as a normal panel line in between the two parts...


Then, put a drop of Tamiya THIN Cement on the gap and you will see that the cement will ran through the gap because of capillary action. This is pretty much the same as when you do panel lines with enamels...


IMPORTANT: let the thin cement stand for 10 seconds before pressing both parts together...see that there is melted styrene in between the parts similar to the standard cement. Again, let it cure overnight ( or at least a couple of hours ) before sanding...


Now, here are some pics of the AC White Glint in my usual tray for modding tomorrow...


BTW, here are some problem areas of the AC White Glint...first the main body part has a seamline, I have to mod this later coz there are parts pressed in between these parts that are in a different color.


Here is another problem area...the armor parts of the thigh has a seamline in the middle..it's either I paint first the internals and mask then remove seamline...OR do some mods so that I won't need to remove the seam lines at all...We will tackle these problems as we go through the build.


Here are some pics of all the cylinders that that I cemented to remove the seamlines and the forearms...I will be sanding this tomorrow...Dang, this kit has sooo many seam lines to fix. hihi


QUICK Update: scraping off the seam lines...

Ello guys, here is a very quick update on removing the seam lines...Basically you sand those seams off with a rough sandpaper ( 600 grit ) and then wetsand with a smooth sandapaper ( 1200 grit and up ). But it is very difficult to sand off the areas with very small and complicated spots...basically you just SCRAPE this off with a fresh art knife. I cannot show you the sanding yet, coz I will be re scribing ALL the existing panel lines to make them deeper. If you skip the rescribing panel line part and sand the parts immediately...most likely you will be sanding OFF those shallow existing panel lines. Anyways here are a few pics showing how I scraped off the seam lines with an art knife without sanding yet.




You can see in the picthat it is still rough, I will need to scrape off a bit more and wet sand the large areas, But basically I've shown you how easy it is to remove seam lines.;)


Thanks for viewing! til' next post. ;)

26 comments:

Mesmer said...

Great tutorial. Doesn't seem to complicated, but I love it when people explain the basics. I'm still learning to do all this stuff and a lot of tutorials assume you know these kinds of things already.

I'd love to see you follow this up with a sanding tutorial. I've been sanding nub marks so far. Some succesful, some not so much. I'd love to see you post something on your technique, especially with rounded surfaces

Unknown said...

new to your blog. i'm very impressed with your work!

Anonymous said...

@ Dustin, thanks bro...I think most modelers like me get lazy to do tutorials of the basics coz it is kinda boring to take pics of the basic stuff like this one. But a few young and new modelers has been asking me about it. I have a wet sanding tutoriial, that might help you with the sanding thingee. But I will try to update this with new pics on how you sand off the seamlines properly. thanks bro. ;)

@ Busterbeam, thanks bro! do visit from time to time...i have more than 140 topics so far. :)

chubbybots said...

I think you forgot to add one more thing, if you are removing that many seamslines at once do outdoors or open all the windows lol!! The smell will kill u ^^

Short and sweet tutorial on such a basic but important aspect on gunpla. Nice!

Anonymous said...

hahaha, agree...but after a while youll find the smell appetizing.hahaha

Thanks bro...i just did a quick one for a few beginners to see that it is relatively easy. ;)

greenmondaymorning said...

hey i plan on building the 1/48 scale gundam and paintiong it the real gundam colors but it deservs the full treetment

i dont have acses to this type of cement so do you know if any other types work here is what i do have acsess to

http://hobbywave.com/search?q=Cement


im siked to get my air brush its one more step to becoming a pro

Anonymous said...

Yeap, those mr hobby types works as fine, if not better. I had one of those, the Mr Cement Limonene type. Goodluck with the airbrushing, but I suggest you practice on a cheap 144 first before airbrushing the 1/48. ;)

greenmondaymorning said...

o yall of coars i know im gonna have to practise first. im actualy going to paint random parts of, whatever. and them im gonna paint some SD kits and ofcoars im gonna paint a 30th anaversery sd rx 78 2 the real type colors and for the funnyest comparasin ever XD

Anonymous said...

Nice! I would love to see your SD RX in real type colors bro. goodluck with your future builds then. ;)

greenmondaymorning said...

hay i desided to come back here where most of mu coments are to ask one more question

i was wondering ither befor or after you finish the white glint if you could do a totoreal on airbrushing

i am getting a dual action air brush but i was wondering about how much paint and thiner what whay to spray and any other techneeks like masking wich i forgot to mention anywas get back to me on that im not going to be getting an airbrush for atleast 3 months i have to w8 for scool to get over and the snow to go away

Anonymous said...

I see, i will try to make one bro...or at least make a list of the basic technicals one of these days.

A dual action is a better choice...though a single action is perfect for beginners. Airbrushing is fairly easy once you get used to the ratios. til then bro! :)

Kam said...

Great tutorial, the timing of setting the cement is a key concept I got from your tutorial. I will bare that in mind to avoid using putty unnecessarily.

Anonymous said...

my pleasure bro, thanks for leaving a comment. Yeah...you should let it cure for at least a couple of hours, BUT I personally let it cure overnight for good measure...we are not in a hurry anyways. ;)

Greggy Bada said...

great tutorials as always! i could really learn from these! everything was well explained and clear.

ironically, i was finding a way to remove seamlines in my gundam using thinned putty, but i have tamiya cement just lying around here... so, big thanks for this tutorial!

Don Suratos ( DC23 ) said...

Thanks Tet Buzzer, just trying to share my adventures with you all. ;)...glad you found this...putty is messy and ruins the fun of building Gunplas if you work with them. hehe

Don Suratos ( DC23 ) said...

Master DC,

In your last image displayed here, did you wet sand the "ladder-looking" or cascaded portion of the part? Or the cement was removed by just using a hobby knife? I find those kinds of parts the hardest to sand during removal of seamlines. So in my previous works, not all seamlines are removed.

Don Suratos ( DC23 ) said...

I just scraped it off with a very sharp art knife bro. yeap they are the hardest, if you sand them coz you'll sand the edges as well...just use an art knife. ;)

Don Suratos ( DC23 ) said...

Ok got it. Thanks man! Akala ko pa naman talagang sina-sand pa din yang areas na yan! LOL

Don Suratos ( DC23 ) said...

hehe, never bro...its difficult to sand. ;)

Don Suratos ( DC23 ) said...

question po

if i use cement on the parts will it bond the plastic together permanently?

Don Suratos ( DC23 ) said...

Yes bro... it will melt the plastics together. XD

Don Suratos ( DC23 ) said...

Wow! Thanks a a lot mate! I've learned a lot. :)

Don Suratos ( DC23 ) said...

Welcome bro! glad you learned something here. :)

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